Sunday, November 23, 2008

Southeast Asia 2008

When you find out who you are, beautiful beyond your dreams ...
From Leslie to her friend ... Karen,

I recall that I told you I’d write about our plans later but have no idea if I ever did. So here goes: we will spend Thanksgiving in Berkeley with David; he has a new apartment and really wants us to stay with him so we’re thrilled! Then we fly to Hong Kong for 3-4 days and then to Bangkok for a couple of days and on to Hanoi. We’ll travel the length of Vietnam by train (I think) and finally cross into Cambodia by bus in time to meet David in Phnom Penh at a good friend’s house on about the 21st of December. We’ll all 3 stay there about a week and then on to northern Thailand (or southern Thailand for islands or Penang or somewhere else) for a few days before David has to return to the US and be a best man at a wedding in Houston (former college roommate), then back pronto to Berkeley to start the new semester. Charles and I will lag behind in Bangkok and Hong Kong a few extra days and then return to Dallas ...

This is an ambitious trip for folks our age but we always have so much fun in spite of exhaustion, etc. And this time, it’s David who’s driving the plan because he really does need to be in Cambodia. So when we have a chance to travel with David, we just say “YES”!

Domestic flights demand a “tripnic” – usually various spreads and breads, but this one is complicated by the 0700 depart. What can we take – breakfast tacos? PB&J (or almond butter)? Photo: my last patient on my last day at Agape until we return from SE Asia in mid-January. At the very end of clinic, the Burmese outreach worker asked, "Can you see three more people? They tried to get here early, but they lost their way." They lost their way

The Future

Set breakfast at place near guesthouse in Mong Kok: eggs, pink ham product, sausage, white bread toast, coffee with condensed milk - $19HKD. Walk over to Nathan Road to catch bus to Chung King Mansions to hang out, talk to woman at internet café, change money. Ferry. On the Island, catch bus to top of Peak (if more than 5 or 6 people in the bus queue, linger and get to front of next queue to get good seat). Maybe walk the circular path or maybe just straight to Pacific Coffee for decent espresso, fabulous view, free internet. Bus back down. Walk to Tsim Chai Kee for shrimp wonton (big, tasty ones with lots of shrimp) soup, plate of steamed vegetable – thanks to Astroboy. Wander around giant shopping center, get lost, maybe another espresso. Ferry back across the harbor. Bus back to Mong Kok. Rest. Walk around Mong Kok. How about getting roast duck & pork on rice to go to eat in our room? Beer from 7-11, maybe some cooold milk (Trappist Monastery is my brand) from 7-11 and pastry from bakery around the corner. This being our 1st full day in Hong Kong, we’ll be pretty tired.

The next day – breakfast sandwiches (I like pink ham product) from the corner stand where they sell stinky tofu later in the day and fresh (bottled right there) sugar cane juice. Later we'll head to the New Territories, to meet Phil (a man I met on the internet) in Tai Po for dim sum or “cha siu at a local bbq meat place.” Yeah, that sounds pretty grand! Then to wherever in the NT Phil recommends. He's an aficionado of obscure things, places, scenes in Hong Kong and writes about them in his website, Oriental Sweet Lips.

Bus to Sham Shui Po for the amazing computer scene, flea market. Back down to Chung King Mansions for vast quantities of Indian food. And who could go to HK without at least one visit to Wellcome …

It feels a little awkward taking off on a major trip in these dire economic times. I noted elsewhere that there is some urgency to go now as Samnang is sick. I was looking at costs of vacations and as it turns out, we’ll spend little more than 1-2 weeks at a lot of resorts. Airfare is the biggest expense – after that we’re budgeting $40/day ($20/person) and will spend less. Most travel will be by train or bus – we’ll be: on the road again, just can’t wait to get on the road again.

Thinking about and getting ready for the young man who will stay in our house while we’re gone and just living in these troubled times and thinking of ways we can cut back, I realize we’ve lived a fairly frugal life for many years. First, Leslie is one of two 9th Level Grand Masters of coupons and sales in the world. For heat in our house we have two Dearborns (space heaters) and a couple of portable electric heaters. The living room is heated by a wood-burning fireplace, which we seldom use – it’s blankets for us. We have window aircon units, no cable, no flatscreen behemoth, no ice-maker, so on & so forth. We keep our clothes until they wear out and buy only on sale or at discount. I haven’t bought a tie other than at a garage sale for >25 years – which means at $.50/tie, I just throw them away if they get dirty and they seldom do. We never buy bottled water. We never have an expensive meal out (usually pay less than $10 for the 2 of us – $5 each. We do go to Central Market and get soup and salad to go and we get our coffee and bread there or at Eatzi’s. And in the past year I’ve bought a lot of backpacking gear (on sale). In all the backpacking trips I took over the past year I spent one night in a hotel.

Most of our money has gone for education – St. Mark’s, Rice and now Berkeley. Like we used to say in the 60s, “If it feels good, do it.” And that’s exactly what we’ve done.

What follows is draft post for Phnom Penh 12/2008

The bus from Saigon took 7 hours and was a comfortable, easy ride with Leslie talking to two young women from Manchester. Goofily we didn't bring anything to eat (food packed in the bus hold) and it's been awile since we've been tempted by bus stop food in SE Asia. The border crossing was easy with the bus guy (kind of like a tour guide) having collected $25 from everyone for visa and his services. So we were among the privileged having a short wait. As in our 2005 Poipet crossing they let us out on one side of the border for us to walk across, then picked us up on the other side, but this time, no dealing with immigration scams.

Got into Phnom Penh around 2:45 to a bus station near the Central Market. Leslie got a tuk-tuk driver to call our hosts (Samnang and his family - where we stayed last time) and we took off in the tuk-tuk for the Russian Market. Another not bad ride. When we turned on to our street we were shocked to see it is now paved. Pulled up in front of the house, where Samnanng, Sokhom, Jeudy, Da, Chanmony, and Sophea greeted us. It was a wonderful homecoming. Our old room was ready for us and there was a Christmas tree in the living area. Everyone looks great. Samnang looks as strong as before, so that's a relief.

Mony's website:

We settled into the old routine of Mony and Sophea hanging out in our room, talking, playing games and so on; great meals fixed by Jeudy & eaten with Samnang, Sokhom, Mony & Sophea; walking to the Russian Market and internet cafe; relaxing; having our morning coffee on the balcony, watching the world go by: people selling ice, charcoal, brooms, eggs, flowers, coconuts, fruit; school children walking, holding hands, riding bikes (holding hands), school teachers, people going to market, coming from market, trash pickers, old guys sitting across the way and upstairs, on the balcony, really old people stooping around, and here comes three teen girls walking along, holding hands, talking; motos, cars, trucks, and lots of carts.

The first time I was in Phnom Penh I experienced it as dark and dangerous. When we went to the Russian Market (a block from where we're staying now) there was a man lying face down in the mud, a man with no face (just an open, infected wound), children with the red hair and sores and big bellies of malnutrition, beggars every few feet, and in a place where we were eating on the riverfront we saw a woman beating one of the vendor children with bamboo like a whip (I intervened) and it all seemed, like I said, dark and dangerous. Now it seems (1) definitely better and (2) like maybe I was misperceiving the degree of darkness before, or (3) all the above.

Following from an email from Leslie to her sisters: I think it's Christmas Day or night where all of you are now so Merry Christmas to all. It's 9:00 am on December 26th here so we celebrated yesterday - our little family 1st thing after getting up, and then a huge feast and party in the evening with our family here. The food was unbelievable - 3 people cooking all day to produce a fabulous Thai soup, egg rolls, rice paper wrapped spring rolls, grilled chicken, pork satay grilled outside, fried rice, special Cambodian salad, and more. It was topped off by a mocha almond cake covered in whipped cream from a French bakery! Then we sang - karaoke with the girls. "Oh Carol" is the one they always want me to do but use Charles' name instead and "Hotel California" for Charles. The girls sing with us and also backup + many songs for just the 2 of them. It is really fun and we laughed till we cried. Charles pantomimed poor Tommy dying on the race track singing "Tell Laura (Leslie in this case) I love her," etc. Too funny and he lays cut and bleeding clutching his poor heart which is broken in more ways than 1. Everyone just exploded in laughter and applause! Of course we miss all of you, especially during the holidays, but this trip has been a really special one. The timing is perfect for our friends so I'm glad we can be here.

CK again: we've also spent time at two western-oriented places: Sister's, a coffee shop with good pastries (not too sweet!) and coffee (French press, no less). Also Jars of Clay, a Christian place with more good coffee and good pasties and a decent used bookstore upstairs. Both are near the Psar Tuol Tom Pong (Russian Market).

Food thoughts for our return: shrimp with lemon grass and chillis served with cha gio from BistroB along with green papaya salad. I also want to fix more bun Cha - really, mine is almost as good as the best we had in Hanoi.

I just finished reading Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer. Heavy stuff and the parallels between Chris McCandless, the protagonist and my mate Jeff are just astonishing - life at the edge, life into the wild, along yet understanding on a deep level that in the end, "happiness is only real when shared" (Chris McCandless shortly before he died).

Right now I'm sitting on the bed with Leslie, David, Mony, Sophea and their cousin Thol and yes, we're happy.

Some years ago I decided that basically I'd seen just about all there was to see site/attraction-wise. I thought, in terms of photos that I would enjoy in the future and that I liked to see taken by other people, that what I saw day-to-day was of greater interest. Maybe I've gone a little far in the direction of market, street, and related photos. But that's mostly what I'm taking and enjoying.

I began to get cabin fever in our nice little place in Phnom Penh. So, it's a two day trip to Kampot (with a long o) for us: up at 4:45, throw some coffee, meusili, banana and milk down and downstairs for the tuk-tuk (arranged for yesterday) that would take us to the Okay guesthouse, our departure point except the tuk tuk driver wasn't there so I headed up the dark street toward the market where there were several tuk tuks parked with sides down and hammocks strung inside for the driver to sleep. I saw an awake driver a little farther and we quickly reached an agreement on the fare to the Okay and went back to Samnang's and picked up David and Leslie (and the food Sokhom had packed for our journey) and awy to the Okay where we waited for 30 minutes and were then bundled into another tuk tuk to the bus station - which is the people's and backpacker's bus station as Kampot and Kep are apparently not big enough stops for a tourist bus and here I am, sharing a seat with a pleasant old woman having her morning iced coffee in a plastic bag. One nice thing that happened was that four kind of scruffy (and entitled) backpackers had appropriated the four best front seats, but the young Cambodian woman in charge of checking tickets and assigned(!) seating moved them to their assigned seats in the back of the bus and put the people with the front seat tickets in the front seats.

Bus into the rush hour traffic and Neil Young's Thresher on the iPod - pretty good road song. The bus is only partly full. All the actual seats are taken, but there are only a couple of people sitting on those little plastic stools are in the aisle and now it's All Over Now, Baby Blue - the primo Grateful Dead version and we're driving past the slums where Chavilet and I went in 2007. It looks like some of the people (squatters) have been moved - Dust in the Wind.

Strike another match
Go start anew
And it's all over now, Baby Blue.

Out of the city on a narrow road and it sounds like a cocktail party behind and around us except nobody is speaking English. We watch it all unfold: lotus and water lilies, squatter's shacks, houses of all sorts, laundry on fences, rice padi with people working in the last fields harvested and cows grazing in the fields already harvested and later the people will spread the newly cut rice out to dry on plastic sheets in front of their houses (many already with rice drying), and except for the few still growing green fields (small patches in the Texas sense of fields) the prototypical Cambodian countryside sere with tall sugar palms, thatched roof one table stores all selling pretty much the same things and stuff hanging from the eaves, gas for sale in 1 liter pop bottles - you got your red gas and you got your yellow gas, and periodically the bus stops to pick people up and when we were closer to Kampot stopping to let people off. Somewhere along the line we stopped in the middle of nowhere (great phrase, eh) behind a long line of cars, buses, trucks, etc. with a constant flow of motos around the sides of the stopped vehicles. A truck up ahead had "collapsed" and we would be waiting for one hour." We found a bench under a tree and waited there, enduring jealous looks from the benchless masses of backpackers smoke-smoke-smoking (Do all Europeans smoke?) them Gitanes, etc. But we only had to wait 30 or 45 minutes. We made the regularly scheduled bus stop restaurant stop a few miles up the road. One thing is certain: bus stop restaurants are a lot better now than in the former times.

The worst bus stop for us was a huge shed of a place in the middle of the night between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, where they slammed down bowls of jook (sp?), i.e., rice porridge with gristly meat and garlic included in the bus fare and the air thick with mosquitos and all sorts of other insect life, not to mention the concrete floor, well, nevermind.

The old woman next to me (still wearing her green sweater) is doing up some aromatherapy and the TV above the driver is featuring yet another Cambodian variety show (brought to us by and a prime example of some things never ever change) and I'm grateful for the iPod and though Robert Earl and REM can't compete, the Black Angels finally win the battle of the bands. The road is running between some hills, climbing now .

Turn left off the main 2 lane highway onto a narrow 1.5 lane road which soon becomes dirt and the bus the bus shaking, swaying rattling and creaking along and after a few miles of dirt/gravel the road is paved and into Kep on the sea with ghostly deserted villas all moldy on the sides of hills and by now all the foreigners except us and a young Chinese woman from Taiwan are off the bus.

It's a short distance between Kep and Kampot and as we are stopped to let someone off on the edge of town there is a kind of gasp from several people at the front of the bus and I look to see a motorcycle and bucycle and two people lying in the road. The moto guy gets up quickly, gets on his moto and takes off without a glance at the girl lying on the pavement. The girl is just lying there and now moving and someone is helping her up and she crumples and they pull her up and help her off the road. The Chinese woman says, "But he just rode away!" There's no answer to that.

We got to the bus stop in Kampot and there was the usual press of moto, etc. drivers. We went with a guy in a white Tico (remember this, Kampot travelers) who took us to a smelly place in a bad location and then refused to take us elsewhere though he had said he would if we didn't like the first place. So we started walking and about a 1/4 mile up the road found a nice guesthouse (Long Villa) that was full, but they had a nice restaurant, so Leslie and David waited there while I walked on and 1/2 block away found a new GH (Popok Vel) that was clean, nice desk guy, aircon, etc. They had a balcony room available, but we've been down that road noise road before, so to the desk guy's puzzlement, chose a very nice back room overlooking (this is a first for us) a pig stye with 3 really big ones + some chickens and a rooster. Cock-a-doodle-doo.

Got a tuk tuk to "downtown" along the river, which was very nice. Had a Beer Lao at an outdoor cafe, then to the Coco Cafe for tom yum, garlic bread, luc lac and french fries. Great collection of geckos - chuk chuk, chuk chuk. All of this on the riverfront and the river and mountains very beautiful at sunset. This whole scene reminded Leslie and me of Burma - specifically Moulmein: very tropical, people friendly, non-harassing, beautiful, run down, cooled out for sure.

In the morning we walked to a big market about 1/2 block from the GH - again, reminiscent of Burma, like the riverside, like everything else in this town. We could definitely see ourselves coming back as we too friendly, non-harassing, run down, and sometimes cooled out.

On the way back to Phnom Penh the next afternoon we passed 20, maybe 30 trucks totally packed with mostly young women, standing, really packed in, coming home from a factory we guessed.

Somewhere along the line we've come to enjoy bus rides - short ones, that is, like 4-6 hours and especially, through the Southeast Asian countryside - though I'm sure through the Rockies or Sierras or New England would be good too. This ride was no different - a constant unfolding of people and places - buffalo carts, motorcycles loaded beyond belief, girls with their long black hair in pony-tails on bicycles, pig selling guys coming back from market with empty baskets that held a trussed up pig on the way into market, spirit houses, haystacks, monks, chickens with trailers of chicks dashing off the road and on and on unfolding like a movie.

Back in Phnom Penh there's a wedding set up down the street. Big pink tents, tables and chairs, and in the afternoon monks chanting just like the many weddings we went to in Dallas. For the chanting part, here as in Dallas, it's the monks, the middle-age and old men and women joining in (and where I always was).

This evening it started raining again, drumming on our metal roof, now roaring on the roof. It's 3 of the last 4 evenings in this, the dry season, cooling things down, making sleeping a rare experience. Perfect weather except for the bride and groom up the street.

In the morning we went downstarirs to see Mony off to school, side saddle on Uncle Da's motorcycle and Saly, a small/medium size dog, perched on the seat in front of Da with her paws over the handlebars, wearing earrings, pearl necklace and sunglasses. Say couldn't wait to hop up on the moto for her frequent ride.

We're leaving tomorrow - off to Bangkok for a few days. David will fly back to San Francisco and on to Houston for Peter and Brandi's wedding. We'll stay a few more days in Bangkok, on to Hong Kong and then back to the US.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Me & Bullet

Down in Carlisle he loved a lady, many years ago
Me and Bullet have been going out back for me to work in the garden and him to doze in the sun on the mulch between the beds. Mostly I'm cleaning beds out for the spring, but I have planted some bulbs - narcissus, two kinds of allium, and some iris.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008


Stay the course
I planted 2 peach trees (Ranger and Redskin) and a blackberry bush a couple of days ago. The moment I decided to plant them I was saying to myself, this is a really good idea – why didn’t I have it before! This retirement scene just keeps on unfolding, from thinking more expansively to the realization that in terms of gardening, I’m back.

The garden was one of those things that fell by the wayside as I tired and cut back on all but the essentials so I could keep the essential balls in the air. Photo: back garden early summer

Over the past 1 or 2 months I’ve spent quite a bit of time (1-3 hours/day 3-5 days/week) going after one-by-one the kudzu vines that filled in the gaps of my absence with an amazing network of underground runners and roots. The front (cottage) garden is close to done & the back is in okay shape – recognizing that I’ll have to do it all over again at least once and the thing is, I’m fine with that – as opposed to the past few years when everything seemed like a burden.

Interesting (to me, anyway) change in direction: when I started gardening, inspired by Wendell Berry, it was all vegetables. Then I began to grow more and more flowers (especially perennials) and then roses. Now I’m shifting back to vegetables and for the first time, fruit along with mostly old garden roses – speaking of which, right now, November 19, several roses in the front yard are blooming very nicely. Perle d’ Or, Maggie, and Archduke Charles are blooming heavily and Marie Pavié has a few flowers. My Cottage Garden site

My plan for 2009 is to fill in most of the non-rose/perennial areas of the front and back gardens with tomatoes, peppers, green beans and other vegetables. I’m hoping that my friend & colleague, Aaron will pass on some heirloom plants and seeds for some of those. I already have all the perennial herbs I need (rosemary, oregano, mint, etc.). What a glorious display we’ll have in 2009!!!

Someone posted a 2009 goals question on the backpacker forum I hang out on ( Backpacking goals? No, I’m thinking in terms of plans – I don’t really have that much in the way of goals, other than living well given whatever circumstances I’m given. When I was teaching I was always having to come up with goals and objectives for myself, so I’d just write something up – it wasn’t enough that I was committed to doing the best job possible as a teacher, clinician and scholar. Photo: paan in Rangoon, ready to add the additives - look at the choices - some extra Euro Star for me, please, and not much 45

Leslie just put together a bag of herbs and spices for David. We went through them made a list - and the smells - what a flashback! It's a Burmese market all over again, huge sacks of spices, women selling paan (well, we're not sending any of that to DK!), and on and on. The bag going to DK has crushed chili flakes, cayenne, coriander, cream of tartar, cinnamon, yellow curry powder, nutmeg, rosemary, oregano, thyme, tarragon, ground mustard, lemon pepper, bay leaves, sage, ground cumin, lemon grass & oregano. We had a wonderful time going through them, except that someone was too bossy, going so far as to say, "It's MY game!"

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

2008 Photos

High up on that mountain
Someone on a backpacker forum put up a "2008 slide show" and I thought, sure, good idea. So here is my slide show for 2008 - with more to be told as before the year's end we'll be in Berkeley, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Hanoi, Sapa, Hue, Saigon and Phnom Penh.

Actually, this year kind of started in November 2007 when I went on a Sierra Club backpacking trip to Big Bend. Since then I've been back backpacking in Big Bend twice and to Bandelier National Monument, Rawah Wilderness, Maroon Bells and the Wind Rivers. This is a big year for me - retiring, backpacking, David in Berkeley, Leslie & I headed for Southeast Asia in less than 2 weeks.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Grand Canyon

Just got a Backcountry Permit from Grand Canyon NP. So far it looks like David, Katy, Patrick and I are the group. We got 5 nights and it looks like this:

Day/night 1. South Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel Campground.
2. BA to Clear Creek Trail and go for ~9 miles. It’s a “use area,” so we can camp wherever as long as not too close to the trail or water
3. Clear Creek (probably same campsite) to day hike, probably to the river via Clear Creek through Zoroaster Canyon or to Cheyava Falls
4. Clear Creek to Bright Angel Campground
5. BA to Indian Garden or just on out
6. Indian Garden on out

The first time I thought of doing this was talking with Bruce, a man I met on my 1st Sierra Club trip to Big Bend. He was a right guy and he told me Grand Canyon was the best backpacking trip he’d taken. I started reading a little and so yeah, here we go. It’s a strange concept to hike down then up, instead of the usual up the mountains, then down – although I wonder if there is about the same up and down total in the mountains. I’ll have to work hard at getting into better shape – it’s a sustained hike down, then up and down inside the canyon and, of course, back up and out.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Woman on a blue stool

The last time we were in Burma, this (copied from travel journal) happened.

So we got on the bus and after it filled up the assistant (every bus has one) set out little blue stools (like the ones you can get at the dollar store) down the aisle. The baggage, boxes, etc. was piled into the area by the front door of the bus. Away we go - WooHoo! Photo: the "bus station" and the bus to Bago

Music pretty good, and we could hear it all because we were right in front of the speakers - I was about half deef to start - now eh, what did you say? We pass the back of Shwedagon and woman next to me offers prayer. Me too. I'm offering prayers for Burma, for the Burmese people. Pray to God for Burma and these people who suffer so much. The music on the bus is really pretty. It's hot on the bus - well, it's hot everywhere. The sun is on our side of the bus. My heart is aching for this land, these people, this beauty. We pass the British Cemetery - it's big, I offer prayer for the souls of these men who died and were buried so far from home.

I fall into conversation with the woman sitting on the little blue stool next to me. She tells me she is retired, a physician. She and her husband (also a doctor) have a small practice in a village near Bago. I ask her what is the biggest problem they see and she says, "Poverty." Diagnoses-wise, they see the basic primary care things, except more parasites. I ask her how people pay for the care and she smiles softly, "They cannot pay very much." I say, "So you are choosing to do this." And she looks at me directly and says, "Yes."
And I'm sure we could have visited their clinic there in Bago, surely helped a little. But I was weary as hell, as Bob Dylan sang, and it's been sick and suffering people for a long time and I decided to not say anything - just let it ride. In part, I wish we'd arranged a visit, but even now, as my strength slowly returns, I know I just didn't have it.